Peanut butter and jelly...

One of the things I have fun doing is taking a classic food item and re-interpreting it into a different dish altogether. Once I took the idea of a tomato basil salad and turned it into a cupcake (I'll save that recipe for a future blog posting!). Today, I've turned a peanut butter and jelly sandwich into a French macaron.

Macarons are not to be confused with macaroons, the cookie made from shredded coconut. Macarons are French sandwich cookies made with almond meal, sugar and egg white and filled with everything from buttercream, to chocolate, to jam, to citrus curd. As I like to tell my students, they taste divine, but they are the fussiest eff-ing cookies to make. The slightest variation in meringue stiffness, texture of the almond meal, oven temperature, baking time, oven rack position, you name it, can cascade through the rest of the recipe and have dramatic results in the final cookie. 

For example, the characteristic features of a macaron are the smooth surface of the cookie atop a ruffled "foot" base. In order to achieve this, the cookie batter is first piped onto a baking sheet, then allowed to dry until a skin forms on the top of the cookie. You test the skin by lightly touching it--if it is dry to the touch, you are okay to bake, but if they are still tacky/sticky, you need to wait. If the cookies have dried just right, the skin holds intact and rises straight up off the sheet pan, leaving the ruffled foot. If they are not dry enough, the cookies will "mushroom", the top of the cookies will expand and crack, and you won't get the foot formation. If the cookies have dried too much, the top skin can become stuck to the base, either causing the top to rise unevenly or crack. And this is just the impacts of drying time--don't get me started on over/under mixing the batter!

Because macarons are so fussy, precise measurements are key, so in the following recipe, you'll see I use weights instead of volumes for the ingredients. Also, the baking times and temperatures in the recipe are what worked for me in my home oven. I can tell you that if I was baking this recipe at work, I'd use different times and temperatures based on how those ovens operate. You will have to try baking a tray or two (or more) before you figure out what works best for your home oven. The cookies pictured in the photos are from the second batch I baked--it took me a couple of attempts to figure out my oven, and even so, I'm still not 100% satisfied. But, I'll work on that with my next attempt. In the meantime, enjoy!

Peanut Butter and Jelly Macarons

Makes 2 to 3 dozen cookies

For the cookies:

7 ounces powdered sugar

1 ½ ounces roasted, lightly salted peanuts

2 ¾ ounces almond meal

4 large egg whites (about 4 ounces)

pinch of Kosher salt

3 ½ ounces granulated sugar

Brown gel food coloring (optional)

For the Concord grape jelly buttercream:

2 large egg whites (about 2 ounces)

4 ounces granulated sugar

6 ounces unsalted butter, softened

¼ cup Concord grape jelly

To make the cookies:

Preheat the oven to 350°F and place a rack in the center. Line 3 baking sheets with silpat baking mats or parchment paper. (I liked the results I got using the silpat best.)

Place about ¹/₃ of the powdered sugar and the peanuts in a food processor and pulse to breakdown the peanuts into a fine meal. Add the almond meal and about half of the remaining powdered sugar and pulse until a fine powder is formed. Transfer the nut and sugar mixture and the remaining powdered sugar into a fine mesh sieve set over a large bowl. Sift the mixture into the bowl, using the back of a wooden spoon to press any remaining bits of almond meal of peanut through the mesh.

Place the egg whites and salt into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Whip on medium high speed until frothy and white in color. Gradually add in the granulated sugar, and once all the sugar has been added, increase the speed and whip until stiff peaks are achieved. Remove the bowl from the mixer.

Scatter about ¹/₃ of the almond mixture over the egg whites and gently fold them into the egg whites. If you are choosing to use the food color gel, add it at this time. Add the second third of the almond mixture to the egg whites and fold as before. When incorporated, fold in the remaining almond mixture. Continue to fold and mix the batter until it is loose enough to slowly flow and drip off the spatula.

Transfer the batter to a piping bag fitted with a ½ inch round piping tip. Carefully pipe rounds of batter onto the prepared baking sheets. You can pipe them to whatever size you like, but be careful to leave space in between the cookies as they will spread after piping. (I piped mine a little larger than 1 ¼ inches in diameter, and the finished cookies are about 2 inches in diameter.) Lift the baking sheets a few inches off the counter and drop them, this will allow any trapped air bubbles to release. Let the cookies stand at room temperature to dry. The cookies are ready to bake with they are dry and not sticky when lightly touched by your fingertip. This may take anywhere from 15 to 45 minutes. 

Bake the cookies, one sheet at a time, for 6 minutes, then rotate the pan in the oven and bake for another 3 minutes. Let the macarons cool on the baking sheet for a few minutes, then transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely. 

To make the Concord grape jelly buttercream:

Place the egg whites and sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer and place the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water. Whisk the egg whites by hand until the sugar is completely dissolved and the egg whites are hot to the touch.

Attach the bowl to the stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment and whisk on medium high speed until stiff glossy peaks form. Continue to whisk until the bottom of the bowl no longer feels warm to the touch.  Reduce the speed to medium low and add the butter, about 1 tablespoon at time, whisking well after each addition and scraping down with a silicon spatula as needed. After all the butter has been added, increase the mixer speed to high and whisk until fluffy. 

With the mixer on medium low speed, add the grape jelly and whisk until thoroughly incorporated. Transfer the buttercream to a piping bag fitted with a star tip.

To assemble the cookies:

You will likely have cookies of slightly varying sizes and shapes, so take a few minutes to organized matched pairs. Pipe a circle of the buttercream on the bottom of one cookie, then top it with its matching mate to form a sandwich. Repeat with the remaining pairs of cookies.

You can store the cookies in a closed container at room temperature, but I recommend storing them in the refrigerator. Storage in the refrigerator will also soften the texture of the cookie and make them even more delicious.

I am pleased to announce...

The big day is almost here. My very first online cooking class will go live on June 1, 2015. I'm so excited!  

The class was the result of a collaboration between Sur La Table and Craftsy.Craftsy is an online resource for classes from sewing, to digital photography, to quilting, to cake decorating, to gardening, to cooking, and more. Check out their website, www.craftsy.com.

When the class officially goes live, I'll post a link to it on Craftsy's website. But, in the interim, you can register for a chance to take the class for FREE!  Just click on the following link between now and June 1st. Craftsy will contact the winner directly.

http://www.craftsy.com/ext/AngieLee_Giveaway

The class consists of seven separate lessons on how to cook with spices. We start with the most basic of spices, salt and pepper, then move on to techniques for using whole spices. We cover how to toast and grind spices, then create our own classic spice blends. After spending an entire lesson on chili peppers, we end with wet spice pastes. We literally travel the world through the lessons, exploring flavor profiles and recipes that show of the spices and techniques. 

I spent much of this spring researching spices, techniques, and recipes for this class. If you've been following my blog the last few months, you've even had a sneak peek at some of those recipes. All of the research and testing culminated in a week of filming at Craftsy's studios in Denver, Colorado. 

I've done some television work in the past, mostly 3 to 5 minute segments on local news programs. This was very different--each lesson is 20 to 30 minutes long, instead of talking to a news reporter, I had to get used to talking to a camera, and I even had to use a teleprompter. It was a fascinating process both to watch and in which to participate. I took comfort in knowing that if I made a mistake, we could start over and try again. There were four different cameras shooting at any given time--one static camera behind the teleprompter, one on a boom that was generally fixed to focus on the countertop in front of me, one set over the stove to get shots into the pots and pans as I was cooking, and one that quickly gained the nickname, Bob. Bob was on a boom that could be moved during the shoot, catching different angles, bobbing (haha) and floating around me as I cooked. At first, I found it very unnerving to talk directly to the camera, I found myself talking to the cameraman instead--which was of course wrong. But once we got into the filming, I quickly got used to it. It took 3 days of filming to put together what will be about 3 to 3 ½ hours of finished product.

Once the filming was complete, a professional photographer came in and took pictures of some of the dishes. Again, it was a fascinating process in which to both participate and watch. 

From the lesson on salt, Burrata with Roasted Cherry Tomato Salad and Marcona-Almond-Basil Pesto. I love how you can see the crystalline structure of the grains of finishing salt.

From the lesson on spice pastes, Harissa.  And yes, that's me holding the spoon.

They even took pictures of me.  I've never worn so much makeup in my life.

I'll have more in the coming weeks after the class goes live. And, don't forget to register for the chance to win the class for free!

Put an egg on it...

We chefs are notorious for having empty refrigerators at home. We spend so many hours in our work kitchens that once we get off work, the idea of cooking once we get home is a little exhausting. I know I'm guilty of picking up take-out on my way home more frequently than I should admit. When I do cook at home, I tend to make things that are relatively quick, easy to portion for one person, and use minimal pots and pans. For me, that means I cook a lot of eggs.

Eggs are not just for breakfast, they can make a quick lunch or dinner as well. Eggs can be the star of the show--scrambled, omelettes, egg salad--or they can be a delicious garnish that will turn what you might think of as a side dish into a full meal. Adding an egg on top of just about anything, from burgers, to pizza, to salads, takes it to another level. The luscious richness from breaking the runny yolk of a poached or fried egg can be better than the fanciest cream sauce.

When do I use a poached egg or a fried egg? Fried eggs strike me as more casual or rustic, and poached eggs are more refined, so it really depends on the overall dish. Most vegetable dishes, I usually go with a poached egg, as you'll see in the recipes below. Burgers, pizza, heartier dishes, such as the rice and beans dish that follows, that's where I usually go with a fried egg.

Poaching an egg looks complicated, can certainly be intimidating, but is really very simple and does not require any special tools. The trick is to get the water to an even simmer, to add the egg to the water without a splash, and to allow the albumen (egg white) to set as quickly, yet gently, as possible. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer--it is much easier to lower the temperature from a boil than to try to hit the simmer perfectly upon initial heating. Add a small amount of white vinegar to the water--the acid will help to set the albumen more quickly. Another trick, swirl the water in the pan just before adding the egg, it will help the albumen to wrap itself around the yolk. And finally, we are cooking an egg after all, so treat it gently--break the egg into a small glass dish and tip it gently into the water, then carefully use a slotted spoon to lift the egg out of the water.

Note:  Poached eggs can be kept overnight. After removing the eggs from the saucepan, place them in a bowl filled with cold water, and place the bowl in the refrigerator. To reheat the eggs, bring a saucepan with water to a simmer and using a slotted spoon, gently transfer the cooked egg from the cold water to the simmering water. Allow them to cook for about 20 to 30 seconds to warm through.

When frying eggs, I prefer to use a non-stick skillet. Proteins break down under heat into a kind of polymer that is quite literally a kind of glue. This is why eggs stick so easily to the pan when cooking, even when you use a liberal amount of fat in the pan, they are essentially pure liquid protein turning into glue. Heat a tablespoon or two of butter or oil in the skillet, then gently crack the egg into the pan. I like to cook my eggs with a modified sunny-side up technique. Rather than spooning fat over the yolks to help set the top layer of the albumen, I cover the skillet with a lid and let the eggs steam, resulting in a completely and evenly set albumen.

Now for some recipes!

Grilled Vegetable Salad with a Poached Egg

This is one of my favorite summer suppers. Use whatever vegetables you have in the fridge and are in season. Top with a squeeze of lemon juice and fresh herbs--the chives are going crazy in my garden right now!

Serves 4

1 bunch asparagus, trimmed

2 large portobello mushrooms, stems trimmed

1 large red onion, cut into thick slices

12 baby sweet peppers, stems and seeds removed, cut in half

2 roma tomatoes, cored and cut in half

Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

juice of one lemon

1 teaspoon white vinegar

4 eggs

2 tablespoons finely sliced chives

Prepare a barbecue grill (medium heat) or grill pan (medium-high to high heat). Drizzle the vegetables with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the vegetables until marked and beginning to soften. Divide the vegetables among four plates and drizzle with additional olive oil and lemon juice. 

Fill a wide, shallow sauce pan with water to a depth of about 1 ½ inches. Add the vinegar and heat over medium low heat to a simmer (165°F to 180°F). Break one of the eggs into a small bowl or cup and tip the egg into the water. Using a slotted spoon, gently turn the egg to gather the egg white around the yolk. Repeat with each of the remaining eggs, spacing them evenly in the saucepan, and poach at a bare simmer until the whites are firm and yolks are still runny, 2 to 3 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to a plate lined with paper towels.

Top each plate of vegetables with a poached egg. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, garnish with chives and serve.

Chevre and Sauteed Mushroom Toast with a Poached Egg

Eggs and mushrooms are a match made in heaven. Add some soft goat cheese and arugula, and I dare you not to ask for seconds.

Serves 4

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup sliced shallots

2 large garlic cloves, chopped

1 ½ pounds brown button mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as chives, parsley, thyme

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 thick slices of baguette, toasted

4 ounces chevre

2 cups arugula

1 teaspoon white vinegar

4 eggs

In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the shallots and cook stirring, until the shallots are softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring,until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook, stirring occasionally. The mushrooms will absorb the fat in the pan and the pan will go dry, but resist the temptation to add more butter to the pan, just keep stirring the mushrooms. As the mushrooms cook, they will release their juices and the absorbed fat back into the pan. When the mushrooms have released their juices, continue to cook until they are soft and the excess liquid has evaporated from the pan, about 5 to 6 minutes of cooking time. Stir in the herbs and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Spread the chevre onto each of the toasted baguette slices. Place each slice on a plate and top with some of the arugula.

Fill a wide, shallow sauce pan with water to a depth of about 1 ½ inches. Add the vinegar and heat over medium low heat to a simmer (165°F to 180°F). Break one of the eggs into a small bowl or cup and tip the egg into the water. Using a slotted spoon, gently turn the egg to gather the egg white around the yolk. Repeat with each of the remaining eggs, spacing them evenly in the saucepan, and poach at a bare simmer until the whites are firm and yolks are still runny, 2 to 3 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to a plate lined with paper towels.

Spoon some of the mushrooms over each of the baguette slices, and top each with a poached egg. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

 Fried Egg on Rice and Beans with Poblanos and Tomatillos 

This dish was truly inspired by the notion of taking leftovers, heating them up and "putting an egg on it." I make large batches of the rice and beans mixture, then heat up one serving portion at a time and top with an egg for a hearty breakfast or a quick dinner.

Serves 4

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 small onion, diced

1 large poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded and diced

3 tomatillos, husks removed and diced

1 15 ounce can kidney beans, drained and rinsed

½ teaspoon cumin

¼ teaspoon coriander

3 cups cooked rice

¼ cup chopped cilantro

juice of ½ lime

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 eggs

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

Heat a large skillet over medium heat, and when hot add the oil, onions and poblano peppers. Cook, stirring, until the onions are softened and translucent. Add the tomatillos and continue to cook until the tomatillos begin to soften. Stir in the kidney beans, cumin and coriander and cook until heated through. Season with Kosher salt and black pepper.  Add the rice and stir to evenly mix. Stir in the cilantro and lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Keep warm.

Place the butter in a large non-stick skillet and melt over medium heat. When the butter has melted, gently break the eggs into the skillet and season with Kosher salt and pepper. Cover the skillet with a lid and cook until the albumen is set but the yolks are still runny, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Divide the rice and beans onto four plates, and top each with a fried egg.  Serve.

Happy Cinco de Mayo!

It's that time of year, Cinco de Mayo! Mexico's Independence Day!

Well, no, not actually. Mexico's independence day is in September. Cinco de Mayo celebrates the Mexican army's victory over the French in the Battle of Puebla on May 5, 1862. The French army was about 3 times larger and much better equipped, and the Mexicans should have lost--but instead, they crushed the French. The victory helped unite the Mexican people and bolster their resistance to the French invaders. Unfortunately, that resistance was short-lived and the French conquered Mexico about a year later. Historians say that if the French had won that day in Puebla, it could have had significant impact on American history. France supported the Confederacy during the American Civil War, and it is widely believed that they were intending to take a much more proactive role in the war. In losing that battle it delayed their takeover of Mexico, and they lost their window of opportunity as the momentum of the Civil War shifted in 1863 and 1864. 

Thus endeth the history lesson.   

It's Cinco de Mayo!  Break out the margarita machine!

I was born and raised in Texas, so for me, Mexican food is home cooking, it's my comfort food. I'm happy for any excuse to cook and eat Mexican food. Chips and salsa to celebrate a war battle?  Count me in. 

Pico de Gallo

Pico de gallo means "rooster's beak" in Spanish. This fresh salsa is often served as a salad in Mexico, so it isn't intended to be super spicy. My first attempt at making pico de gallo was inspired by the band Trout Fishing in America. If you know the band you know exactly which song!

Makes 7 cups

1 large sweet onion, such as Maui or Vidalia (about 14 to 16 oz), diced

2 pounds Roma tomatoes, diced

1 or 2 jalapeño peppers, seeded and diced

½ cup firmly packed cilantro leaves, chopped

Kosher salt to taste

Juice of one lime, plus more to taste

Mix all ingredients together in a large bowl. Serve with corn tortilla chips.

Fire Roasted Tomato and Chipotle Salsa

I prefer Roma tomatoes for this salsa because they are less watery and have a firmer flesh which allows them to handle the intensity of the charring without breaking down too much. You can adjust the spiciness of the salsa by adding more or less chipotles in adobo.

Makes 4 cups

1 medium onion, peeled, root end removed and cut in half

10 to 12 Roma tomatoes, cored

4 to 5 chipotle chili peppers, from a can of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce

1 tablespoon adobo sauce, from a can of chipotle peppers in adobo sauce

Kosher salt to taste

Juice of one lime, plus more to taste

Preheat a propane or charcoal grill, or place a vegetable roasting rack over a gas stove burner. Place the onion halves and the tomatoes over the flame and roast, turning periodically, until blackened and charred. (Alternatively, place the onions and tomatoes on a sheet pan in the oven under the broiler and roast as described.) Remove to a platter and allow to cool slightly.

Place the charred tomatoes and onion, and the rest of the ingredients into a food processor and process until smooth. Serve.

Guacamole

I like my guacamole very simple.  I don't mix in herbs or spices or chilies, I only flavor it with salt, lime juice, onion, and a little tomato. For me, guacamole is there to counteract the fiery heat from chili peppers and the other salsas. The fattiness of the avocados helps to tame the burn and soothe my tongue the same way milk does.

Serves 4 to 6

2 or 3 large, ripe avocados (I prefer Haas)

2 tablespoons diced white onion 

1 small tomato, seeded and finely diced

Kosher salt to taste

Lime juice to taste

Cut each avocado in half, remove the seed, and scoop out the flesh with a spoon into a mixing bowl. Using a sturdy wire whisk, mash and stir the avocados until creamy. Mix in the remaining ingredients with a spoon. Serve.

So many strawberries....

If you read last week's post, you know that I went into raptures over strawberries. How they made me know that spring had finally arrived. How they reminded me of that trip to Sweden where I had best strawberries I had ever eaten. I indulged my sweet tooth and made strawberry cupcakes with strawberry buttercream. (The staff at work really enjoyed last week's post, I brought the cupcakes in to the store.) 

I had pounds of strawberries left over in my fridge.

Given my crazy work schedule, those poor strawberries sat in my fridge for several days, and they were looking a little sad. What to do, what to do...  I settled on making ice cream.

In addition to our public class schedule, we also offer private classes. Most of our events are for larger groups, usually office team-building, birthday parties, bridal showers. But this week, we had a mother and daughter book a private class, it was a Christmas gift. One of the advantages to booking a private class is that we can completely customize the menu. In this case, the mom was on an anti-inflammatory diet. No gluten, no dairy, no refined sugars, only minimally processed products. She could eat lean proteins, vegetables, fruit, eggs, and sweeteners were limited to things like honey and maple syrup. When we were discussing the menu, she said that she didn't usually eat dessert, but she wanted me to see if I could come up with something. 

Last fall, I had a private event client with a similar set of dietary limitations. She and her family had taken a bit further and were trying to follow the Paleo diet. The concept of the Paleo diet is to eat in the same manner and the same foods as man did in the Paleolithic era, or the Old Stone Age which ended about 12,000 years ago. Paleo is very similar to the anti-inflammatory diet, but it goes further, limiting the types of proteins to only those that are grass-fed, free-range, and/or wild-caught.  Fruits and vegetables are limited to those that would have been available to Paleo man, modern cultivars, such as white potatoes (Russets, Idahos, etc.), are forbidden. For their menu, I did some research into Paleo-friendly desserts and came across a roasted peach ice cream sweetened with honey and made with coconut milk. It was a huge hit.

So, for my mother and daughter clients this week, I pulled out the roasted peach ice cream recipe, and they were equally pleased with the result. We got to talking about how you could modify the recipe, try it with different fruits, use different herbs and spices to infuse flavor into the coconut milk base. When I got home and saw those sad strawberries in my refrigerator, I decided to experiment, and the result is the recipe I present in today's post.

Since I'm not concerned with keeping a Paleo or anti-inflammatory diet, I did use granulated sugar in the recipe. I also thought the flavor of the honey might be too strong in combination with the coconut milk and the strawberries. I think it turned out quite nice.

Strawberry Coconut Milk Ice Cream

Makes 1 ½ quarts

1 ¼ pounds strawberries, stemmed, cored and chopped

¼ cup sugar

2 15-ounce cans unsweetened coconut milk

4 egg yolks

½ cup sugar

1 tsp vanilla extract

Place the strawberries and ¼ cup sugar in a saucepan set over medium heat.  Cook, stirring occasionally, until the strawberries have softened and their juices have thickened and become jam-like, about 10 to 15 minutes. Mash the berries into a chunky pulp and cool.

Place the coconut milk in a saucepan set over medium heat and bring to a simmer. In a medium mixing bowl, whisk together the egg yolks and ½ cup sugar. While continuously whisking, slowly ladle the hot coconut milk into the egg and sugar mixture.  When all of the hot coconut milk has been added, transfer the mixture back to the saucepan. Cook, stirring, over medium heat until the custard has thickened and coats the back of a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat and pour the custard through a fine mesh sieve set over a mixing bowl. This will filter out any bits of curdled egg that might be in the custard. Mix in the vanilla and strawberry pulp.

The ice cream base must be chilled prior to processing in an ice cream machine. The classic technique is to place the bowl in an ice bath and stir until cooled to room temperature, then to place the bowl in the refrigerator for several hours. At work, we've come up with a technique that more rapidly chills the base, allowing us to make and process the ice cream within the time constraints of our classes. The technique is to transfer the warm ice cream base into a gallon ziplock bag. Press out all of the air and then plunge the ziplock into a bowl of ice water. Because the ziplock bag allows more surface area to be in contact with the ice water, the ice cream base will chill down much more quickly. 

 

Once the base is cold, process it in your ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions. Most machines will take it to a soft-serve consistency. Once that consistency is reached, transfer the processed ice cream to an air-tight container and freeze until firm.