Saturday, January 13, 2018

Pretty in pink grapefruit...

One of my favorite parts of my new job is that I get to create the calendar of classes that we offer to the public each month. Creating the calendar is a bit like putting together a puzzle without having the picture on the box to go by. I have to take into consideration the season, any major holidays that month, and any store product festivals (like our Hatch chile fest last fall.) Prior to November, we had been running calendars that had been put together for us by senior management while I completed my training and onboarding, but since then, I've been creating our content.

I'm still getting to know our customers, so I've been offering a mix of existing classes while working in some new menus. It's been really gratifying to hear their feedback, the students really seem to like the new offerings. I'm starting to venture back into developing brand new recipes for classes, and I'm having a lot of fun with it.

Our annual Citrus Festival happens every January at the store, and I created a number of new classes to highlight the festival, including one that focuses on citrus in baking and pastry. As you might imagine, a baking and pastry class means that we're using the ovens a lot, and multiple bake times and temperatures can be a trick to manage. To make that part of the class logistics a bit easier, I often try to include a recipe that doesn't need to use the oven, and for this class, I added a marshmallow recipe.

Most people think marshmallows are made with egg whites, but they're actually made with unflavored gelatin. Gelatin is made from animal collagen (connective tissue, bones, etc.), so classically made marshmallows like this recipe are not vegetarian-friendly. It is great for your hair, skin, and nails, though. Once the gelatine is softened in water, it is whipped with hot sugar syrup until it is light and fluffy, then spread into a pan to cool. 

Marshmallows can be flavored during the mixing process and before they are cooled and set. For our citrus class, I wanted to make a grapefruit flavored marshmallow. To achieve this, I took fresh-squeezed Texas ruby-red grapefruit juice and boiled it on the stove until it had reduced in volume by about two thirds. I added this reduced juice to the sugar syrup, then added the zest of a whole ruby-red grapefruit just as I finished whipping the marshmallows. (Add the zest at the end of mixing,otherwise it will just end up collecting and clinging to the wires of the mixer's whip attachment.) The juice and zest gave the marshmallows a delicate pink color in addition to a great flavor.

To finish off the marshmallows, I dipped them in chocolate and garnished the with candied grapefruit zest. I hope you enjoy!




Chocolate-Dipped Pink Grapefruit Marshmallows

Makes 36 marshmallows

For the candied grapefruit zest:
1 pink grapefruit
2 cups sugar, plus additional for coating the candied zest
2 cups water

For the marshmallows:
Vegetable oil for brushing pan
About 3 cups confectioners' sugar for coating pan and marshmallows
1 cup pink grapefruit juice
1 cup water, divided
3 (¼-ounce) envelopes powdered unflavored gelatin
1 ½ cups granulated sugar
1 cup light corn syrup
¼ teaspoon salt
Zest of 1 pink grapefruit (removed with a microplane)

For the chocolate coating:
8 ounces bittersweet chocolate

To make the candied grapefruit zest: Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest from the grapefruit in large strips, being careful to minimize the amount of white pith that is attached to the zest. Using a sharp knife, shave off as much of the white pith from the zest strips as possible. Cut the zest strips into 2 inch lengths, then thinly julienne the zest pieces.




Place the julienned zest pieces into a small saucepan and cover with water. Bring the pan to a boil over medium high heat. Empty the pan into a fine mesh strainer, add fresh water to the saucepan and return the zest from the strainer to the pan. Repeat the boiling and straining process 2 more times, for a total of 3 times.



Return the 3 times boiled zest to the saucepan, and add the 2 cups water and 2 cups sugar. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Once at a full boil, reduce the heat to medium. Continue to cook on a low boil/high simmer, until the zest is translucent and the sugar syrup has reduced by about one third, about 20 to 30 minutes.

Place a fine mesh strainer over a bowl and pour the sugar syrup and candied zest into the strainer. Place about a cup or two of sugar on a plate or other shallow dish, and transfer the strained zest onto the plate. (Save the syrup, it makes great cocktails!) Gently separate and toss the candied zest pieces with the sugar to coat. Remove the sugared zest pieces and transfer them to a plate or sheet pan to dry. The dried zest can be stored in an airtight container for several weeks.



To make the marshmallows: Brush the bottom and sides of a 9-inch square baking pan with vegetable oil. Using a small, fine-mesh sieve, dust the foiled pan generously with confectioners' sugar.

Put the ½ cup water in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Sprinkle the gelatin into the bowl and stir briefly to make sure all the gelatin is in contact with water. (The gelatin will soften and absorb the water.)




In a heavy 3- to 4-quart saucepan, bring the grapefruit juice to a boil. Boil until the juice is reduced in volume to 1/3 cup. Remove from the heat and add the granulated sugar, corn syrup, salt, and ½ cup water, mixing together with a silicone spatula until combined. Place the saucepan over moderate heat and bring to a boil, stirring until the sugar is dissolved. Put a candy thermometer into the boiling sugar syrup and continue boiling (the mixture may foam up, so turn the heat down slightly if necessary), without stirring, until the thermometer registers 240°F (soft-ball stage). Remove the saucepan from the heat and let stand briefly until the bubbles dissipate slightly.



With the mixer on low speed, pour the hot sugar syrup in a thin stream down the side of the bowl into the softened gelatin. Gradually increase the mixer speed to high and beat until the marshmallow is very thick and forms a thick ribbon when the whisk is lifted, about 5 minutes. Beat in the grapefruit zest.



With the silicone spatula, scrape the marshmallow into the prepared pan (it will be very sticky) and use wet fingertips to spread it evenly and smooth the top. Let stand, uncovered at room temperature, until the surface is no longer sticky and you can gently pull the marshmallow away from the sides of the pan with your fingertips, at least 4 hours or overnight.

Dust a cutting board with confectioners' sugar.  Brush or spray an offset spatula with oil and run the spatula around the inside edges of the pan to loosen the marshmallow. (You may need to run the spatula under hot water as it becomes sticky and to reapply the oil.) Lightly oil your hands and fingers and pull the marshmallow away from the sides of the pan, and invert it onto the cutting board. Dust the marshmallow with more confectioners' sugar. 



Brush or spray a long thin knife or a chef's knife with vegetable oil. (As with the spatula, you may need to run the spatula under hot water as it becomes sticky and to reapply the oil.) Cut lengthwise into 6 strips, then crosswise into 6 strips, to form a total of 36 squares. (For smaller marshmallows, cut lengthwise into 8 strips, then crosswise into 8 strips, to form a total of 64 squares.)  Transfer the marshmallows to a bowl of powdered sugar to coat, then remove from the bowl and brush off any excess with a pastry brush. (Marshmallows can be stored, layered between sheets of wax paper or parchment in an airtight container in a dry place at cool room temperature, for 1 month.)



To coat with chocolate: Place the marshmallows on a parchment lined sheet pan in the freezer for about 30 minutes.

Place the chocolate in a heat-proof bowl and set over a pan of simmering water to melt. Remove the bowl of melted chocolate from the pan, and remove the marshmallows from the freezer. Carefully dip the marshmallows in the chocolate. Place the marshmallows chocolate-side-up back on the parchment lined sheet pan. Before the chocolate sets completely, place a piece of candied grapefruit zest on top of the marshmallow. Repeat with the remaining marshmallows. (Chocolate-coated marshmallows can be stored in an air-tight container and should be eaten within a few days.)