Put an egg on it...

We chefs are notorious for having empty refrigerators at home. We spend so many hours in our work kitchens that once we get off work, the idea of cooking once we get home is a little exhausting. I know I'm guilty of picking up take-out on my way home more frequently than I should admit. When I do cook at home, I tend to make things that are relatively quick, easy to portion for one person, and use minimal pots and pans. For me, that means I cook a lot of eggs.

Eggs are not just for breakfast, they can make a quick lunch or dinner as well. Eggs can be the star of the show--scrambled, omelettes, egg salad--or they can be a delicious garnish that will turn what you might think of as a side dish into a full meal. Adding an egg on top of just about anything, from burgers, to pizza, to salads, takes it to another level. The luscious richness from breaking the runny yolk of a poached or fried egg can be better than the fanciest cream sauce.

When do I use a poached egg or a fried egg? Fried eggs strike me as more casual or rustic, and poached eggs are more refined, so it really depends on the overall dish. Most vegetable dishes, I usually go with a poached egg, as you'll see in the recipes below. Burgers, pizza, heartier dishes, such as the rice and beans dish that follows, that's where I usually go with a fried egg.

Poaching an egg looks complicated, can certainly be intimidating, but is really very simple and does not require any special tools. The trick is to get the water to an even simmer, to add the egg to the water without a splash, and to allow the albumen (egg white) to set as quickly, yet gently, as possible. Bring the water to a boil, then lower the heat to a gentle simmer--it is much easier to lower the temperature from a boil than to try to hit the simmer perfectly upon initial heating. Add a small amount of white vinegar to the water--the acid will help to set the albumen more quickly. Another trick, swirl the water in the pan just before adding the egg, it will help the albumen to wrap itself around the yolk. And finally, we are cooking an egg after all, so treat it gently--break the egg into a small glass dish and tip it gently into the water, then carefully use a slotted spoon to lift the egg out of the water.

Note:  Poached eggs can be kept overnight. After removing the eggs from the saucepan, place them in a bowl filled with cold water, and place the bowl in the refrigerator. To reheat the eggs, bring a saucepan with water to a simmer and using a slotted spoon, gently transfer the cooked egg from the cold water to the simmering water. Allow them to cook for about 20 to 30 seconds to warm through.

When frying eggs, I prefer to use a non-stick skillet. Proteins break down under heat into a kind of polymer that is quite literally a kind of glue. This is why eggs stick so easily to the pan when cooking, even when you use a liberal amount of fat in the pan, they are essentially pure liquid protein turning into glue. Heat a tablespoon or two of butter or oil in the skillet, then gently crack the egg into the pan. I like to cook my eggs with a modified sunny-side up technique. Rather than spooning fat over the yolks to help set the top layer of the albumen, I cover the skillet with a lid and let the eggs steam, resulting in a completely and evenly set albumen.

Now for some recipes!

Grilled Vegetable Salad with a Poached Egg

This is one of my favorite summer suppers. Use whatever vegetables you have in the fridge and are in season. Top with a squeeze of lemon juice and fresh herbs--the chives are going crazy in my garden right now!

Serves 4

1 bunch asparagus, trimmed

2 large portobello mushrooms, stems trimmed

1 large red onion, cut into thick slices

12 baby sweet peppers, stems and seeds removed, cut in half

2 roma tomatoes, cored and cut in half

Extra virgin olive oil for drizzling

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

juice of one lemon

1 teaspoon white vinegar

4 eggs

2 tablespoons finely sliced chives

Prepare a barbecue grill (medium heat) or grill pan (medium-high to high heat). Drizzle the vegetables with olive oil and season with salt and pepper. Grill the vegetables until marked and beginning to soften. Divide the vegetables among four plates and drizzle with additional olive oil and lemon juice. 

Fill a wide, shallow sauce pan with water to a depth of about 1 ½ inches. Add the vinegar and heat over medium low heat to a simmer (165°F to 180°F). Break one of the eggs into a small bowl or cup and tip the egg into the water. Using a slotted spoon, gently turn the egg to gather the egg white around the yolk. Repeat with each of the remaining eggs, spacing them evenly in the saucepan, and poach at a bare simmer until the whites are firm and yolks are still runny, 2 to 3 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to a plate lined with paper towels.

Top each plate of vegetables with a poached egg. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, garnish with chives and serve.

Chevre and Sauteed Mushroom Toast with a Poached Egg

Eggs and mushrooms are a match made in heaven. Add some soft goat cheese and arugula, and I dare you not to ask for seconds.

Serves 4

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup sliced shallots

2 large garlic cloves, chopped

1 ½ pounds brown button mushrooms, trimmed and quartered

2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs, such as chives, parsley, thyme

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 thick slices of baguette, toasted

4 ounces chevre

2 cups arugula

1 teaspoon white vinegar

4 eggs

In a large skillet, melt the butter over medium heat. When the butter is melted, add the shallots and cook stirring, until the shallots are softened and translucent, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic and cook, stirring,until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook, stirring occasionally. The mushrooms will absorb the fat in the pan and the pan will go dry, but resist the temptation to add more butter to the pan, just keep stirring the mushrooms. As the mushrooms cook, they will release their juices and the absorbed fat back into the pan. When the mushrooms have released their juices, continue to cook until they are soft and the excess liquid has evaporated from the pan, about 5 to 6 minutes of cooking time. Stir in the herbs and season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and keep warm.

Spread the chevre onto each of the toasted baguette slices. Place each slice on a plate and top with some of the arugula.

Fill a wide, shallow sauce pan with water to a depth of about 1 ½ inches. Add the vinegar and heat over medium low heat to a simmer (165°F to 180°F). Break one of the eggs into a small bowl or cup and tip the egg into the water. Using a slotted spoon, gently turn the egg to gather the egg white around the yolk. Repeat with each of the remaining eggs, spacing them evenly in the saucepan, and poach at a bare simmer until the whites are firm and yolks are still runny, 2 to 3 minutes. Using the slotted spoon, transfer the eggs to a plate lined with paper towels.

Spoon some of the mushrooms over each of the baguette slices, and top each with a poached egg. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve.

 Fried Egg on Rice and Beans with Poblanos and Tomatillos 

This dish was truly inspired by the notion of taking leftovers, heating them up and "putting an egg on it." I make large batches of the rice and beans mixture, then heat up one serving portion at a time and top with an egg for a hearty breakfast or a quick dinner.

Serves 4

1 tablespoon canola oil

1 small onion, diced

1 large poblano pepper, stemmed, seeded and diced

3 tomatillos, husks removed and diced

1 15 ounce can kidney beans, drained and rinsed

½ teaspoon cumin

¼ teaspoon coriander

3 cups cooked rice

¼ cup chopped cilantro

juice of ½ lime

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

4 eggs

Kosher salt and pepper to taste

Heat a large skillet over medium heat, and when hot add the oil, onions and poblano peppers. Cook, stirring, until the onions are softened and translucent. Add the tomatillos and continue to cook until the tomatillos begin to soften. Stir in the kidney beans, cumin and coriander and cook until heated through. Season with Kosher salt and black pepper.  Add the rice and stir to evenly mix. Stir in the cilantro and lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning as needed. Keep warm.

Place the butter in a large non-stick skillet and melt over medium heat. When the butter has melted, gently break the eggs into the skillet and season with Kosher salt and pepper. Cover the skillet with a lid and cook until the albumen is set but the yolks are still runny, about 3 to 4 minutes.

Divide the rice and beans onto four plates, and top each with a fried egg.  Serve.