Friday, March 27, 2015

Deep in the heart of Texas....

Texas has many claims to fame--it is the only state that was once an independent country, it is the only state whose flag can fly at the same height as the Stars and Stripes, it is the largest state in the lower 48, and chili was invented there. Legend tells us that range cooks traveling with the cowboys along the cattle trails in west Texas planted small plots of chili peppers, oregano, onions, and garlic along the way that they would harvest to add flavor to stews made from wild boar, deer, jackrabbit, or the occasional steer that didn't survive the cattle drive. From those humble, survivalist beginnings was born the dish that launched a thousand cook-offs.

One of the lessons I'm including in the upcoming web-based class on cooking with spices that I'm teaching is about cooking with chiles. In addition to making the tomatillo and chili salsa from a couple of blog entries ago, I'm also including a lesson on making your own chili powder from scratch. We'll then use that chili powder to make a traditional Texas chili. Since it's been a while since I made my chili recipe, I decided to whip up a batch today to work out any kinks in the recipe.

First, the chili powder. Now, I'll admit, when I've made chili in the past, I've just used store bought blends, but for this class, I really wanted to make the powder from scratch. I did some research, found several different recipes that I folded together into the following version.

Texas Chili Powder
Makes about 1 cup

4 ancho chili peppers, stems and seeds removed
3 guajillo chili peppers, stems and seeds removed
4 chiles de árbol, stems and seeds removed
2 tablespoons cumin seeds
2 tablespoons garlic powder
1 tablespoon Mexican oregano

Preheat the oven to 350°F. Place the chili peppers on a sheet pan and place the sheet pan in the oven. The chiles will toast at different rates, with the smaller chiles toasting more quickly than the larger, so keep a close eye on the oven. After about 2 minutes, check the chiles de arbol, they should be browned and dried; remove from the sheet pan and return the pan to the oven. After another 2 minutes, check the guajillo chiles and remove from the sheet pan as they become brown and dried. After another 2 or 3 minutes, check the ancho chiles and remove them from the sheet pan as they become brown and dried. Transfer the chiles to a spice grinder, food processor or blender.

Heat the cumin seeds in a small skillet over medium to medium-high heat and toast, stirring occasionally, until browned and fragrant. Add the cumin seeds to the chiles and allow to cool. Add the garlic powder and oregano and process to a fine powder. Sift the powder through a fine-mesh sieve. Store in an airtight container.



Now, it was time to take the chili powder and turn it into a bowl of chili. Over the years, I've seen recipes that incorporate all kinds of ingredients, from beer to chocolate. There are great debates over the inclusion of tomatoes, ground beef vs. stew meat,  and don't even get me started on the inclusion or omission of beans. The following recipe is one that I think is pretty traditional, it uses tomato paste to give richness to the sauce as well as a balancing sweetness, cubed beef chuck, and beans are nowhere to be found.


Texas Beef Chili
Serves 6 to 8

4 pounds beef chuck roast, trimmed and cut into ½ inch pieces
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
¼ cup canola oil
5 medium white onions, peeled and chopped
5 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
12 ounces tomato paste
4 tablespoons dried Mexican oregano
4 tablespoons Texas chili powder (see recipe)
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 tablespoon Spanish pimentón or other smoked paprika
1 teaspoon ground cumin
5 cups water
¼ cup masa harina
juice of 2 limes

Season the beef with salt and pepper. Heat a large Dutch oven over medium to medium-high heat. Add the oil and, working in batches, brown the beef, 3 to 4 minutes per batch. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the beef to a plate.

Add the onions to the Dutch oven, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir in the garlic and tomato paste and cook, stirring frequently and scraping bottom of the Dutch oven with a wooden spoon, until the tomato paste is caramelized, about 8 minutes. Add the oregano, chili powder, cayenne, pimentón, and cumin and cook, stirring frequently, for 1 minute.

Return the beef to Dutch oven, add the water, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium low, partially cover with a lid, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the meat is tender, about 2 hours. Stir in the masa harina. Continue to simmer, stirring, until thickened, about 5 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and season to taste with salt and pepper. Ladle into bowls and garnish with grated cheddar cheese and sour cream.

No comments:

Post a Comment